Physics of Traveling Waves in Shallow Water Environment

We present a study of the physical characteristics traveling waves at shallow and intermediate water depths. The main subject is to influence nonlinearity on dispersion properties waves, their limiting heights steepness, shape solitary etc. A fully nonlinear Serre–Green–Naghdi-type model, classical weakly Boussinesq model fifth-order Stokes wave solutions were chosen as models for comparison. analysis showed significant, if not critical, differences in effect these models. comparison with experiments was carried out basis results joint Russian–Taiwanese experiment, which 2015 Tainan Hydraulic Laboratory, available experimental data. confirms applicability completely calculating over entire range contrast shows contradictory unrealistic moderate wavelengths.